Tuesday 22 December 2009

A Tale of Two Cities

Aeroplanes amaze me. Three hours and bang! Everything has changed. The gradual change of climate is simply done away with, the intermittent linking cultures obliterated and landforms simply restructured. All the while, you are sitting unawares wondering why that simple Vegetable sandwich cost so much.

I am home now; and I am glad. I have accomplished the task of enduring a day of wandering through the length of our country, only to find myself astonished yet another time by the immense diversity of our nation. While Gandhi employed the steam engine on his tour around the land to comprehend the sheer magnitude of cultural wealth India possesses, I am sure he would have been far more bewildered had he taken a flight like I did, thus highlighting these stark contrasts. Here is a tale of two cities (I omit the town) which I encounter, three hours off each other; each time I take the ride home.

The massive cash inflow into the DDA’s coffers is only apparent in the speed at which the pillars rise. The Commonwealth Games have given Delhi’s development a mammoth boost which, all going well, must give the Capital infrastructure close the World’s best cities. The weird aspect however remains the fact that the mighty Mughal capital has waited until 2010 to grow into a global city. I have often wondered what Delhi-ites were doing prior to their magic-Metro. With an abysmal bus-service which is known to kill more people than it transports and immensely congested roads inhabited by colossal vehicles, I’m amazed people even worked!

On the other hand, the land of the Tamil people has been rather supportive to its growing population. With an impeccable bus-service and omnipresent autos, albeit charging exorbitant fares to the unwitting Northie, coupled with much less clogged roads as compared to any of the other Big4, it has never been a problem to traverse the lengths of the seaside city. Another fact is that each area of Chennai is more-or-less self contained, something I never saw during my ephemeral life in Delhi. Call it Boon – owing to lesser travel necessity – or Bane – as each man sees so much less of his City, it remains an intrinsic fact.

With mighty pillars, strong and bold, each overpass seems to underline that power which Delhi so much wants to flaunt. Malls rising out of every nook and cranny; retail chains spreading like Virus; and more asphalt, steel and cement, only make apparent the Capital’s urgency to let go of those chains which restrain it. These, however are also those ropes which link Today with the past. Delhi is letting go.

On the other hand, the maritime city, 20oC warmer, is hell-bent on holding on. The outlook is cautious; and though development will not be overlooked, no one seems to be in a hurry to shed the present image. Malls are few; the few stand tall. Anything built overhead is with miniscule pillars, built as excuses for Flyovers. Buildings rise, not as cement monsters but behemoths of steel and glass. Rayban, Ferrari and Gucci are taking their own time trickling down the rungs of society; much unlike 1000 miles away, where Connaught Place boasts of a mini Manhattan - people trying all too hard to don the image of the quintessential New-Yorker. But the cautious outlook down South borders on bourgeois, leaving me reeling in alarm.

While T-Shirts and Jeans have become unisex themes of Delhi, Chennai finds itself yet a melange of tees, shirts, saris, salwars, jeans, trousers and veshtis – maybe not the collegiate dream. While Delhi has jumped into hyperspace drive; still the temple of the Theist, Chennai somehow seems to encompass the past, present and the future, . IT corridors have slashed open the newest avenues of growth and the coast may soon serve as the Auto-hub of India, while Parthasarthy and Kapaleeshwarar shrines and the Santhome church will forever remain the heart of Chennai.

NCR is growing at light-speed, breaking every record it sets; but as a friend aptly pointed out – 75% of Delhi is well-developed, great; but 50% of its people still suffer for bread. I’m uncertain about the below poverty ratios of Chennai, but the far fewer less endowed settlements are evenly spaced out, clearly visible to the naked eye; not latent. However, the steps taken both here, and there, are encouraging. The Delhi Metro has me overawed, but I cannot imagine life without my beloved ‘29C’!

I’m definitely against Karunanidhi in his unintelligent calls for protecting what he calls ‘Tamizh Kalacharam’, but maybe there is something in me that wants to hold on. This is not a sermon, and I do not preach. Neither approach is better than the other, neither easier to accomplish. I shall terminate with Anthony’s great words – “Take thou what course thou wilt.”

17 comments:

  1. There was someone who rightly pointed out, "Delhi has hubs, and connecting these hubs is nothingness."
    Taking that further, I used to love Mumbai at one point in time. I preferred it over Delhi. But for me today, nothing beats Delhi.
    Chennai has it's own charm. Food being cheap is one of them! :)

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  2. Guess I can't re-frame that in any better way. I initially thought of dropping all the places I've lived in into what would have been a mammoth equation; then realized that the wise way is to take them a couple at a time.
    As for food pricing, I also stay at Roorkee da!

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  3. Whoa! I thought the grass was always supposed to be greener on the other side? I have wished plenty of times in my life if I could live somewhere down south, away from the painfully hectic life in the big city. Yet, I must say my counterparts have bitterly disappointed me by criticising the Capital city all the time, without ever understanding it properly.
    Westernisation is unfortunate, but glaringly prevelant in many cities of the country. I totally agree about it being a big drawback, but have you seen any big difference in the way PSR, Haaris and I dress and the way you or Ghiswa or Shreyas dress? In short, you can always stay away from the part of Delhi you hate, and embrace your own culture. And the most interesting thing about Delhi is that you won't find any natural Delhi-ite; Delhi is a subtle mix of Chennai, Hyderabad, Kolkatta, Ahmedabad, Srinagar and every other Indian town you can think of. If you start disciminating between a Maddu living in Delhi and one living in Madras, then it's a sad turn of events. As for development, I have no doubt that Chennai isn't in any way better off than Delhi.
    One more thing. The weather at Chennai is about the worst in the country- uni-dimensional, unbearably hot throughout the year (with the occasional rainfall). I know that because it's almost the same in Calicut.

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  4. kondi u hv a point.Lord,u hav points too.
    But one thing that will have an indelible lifelong impression on me is that of a koolie at the Nellore station in AP reading the english Hindu at about 5 in the morning.I hv never seen nething even close to it in Delhi.And forgive me for my rigidity but i always feel that knowledge is the greatest indicator of net progress:material+moral+spiritual+.....

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  5. Another sem-break goes by without a trip to dear ol' Madduland. For someone from a family that has voted for the DMK for as long as I an remember, I really don't give a hoot about 'Tamizh Panbaadu' and all that rot. That said, I really have had enough of the North and the superficiality that it is filled with. To make matters worse, a Matka two floors above has been playing 'Sorgame endraalum adhu nammooru pola varuma' all day. Sigh.

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  6. West may have influenced the city's clothing habits, but it it still remains loyal to it's traditional attires. The people are diverse, the food is diverse and so is the clothing, and it seems your uni-theme observation owes itself to a mere glimpse of the city. Unfortunately in case of Delhi's critics, they are never equipped with more than few glances and a few hours of rambling. You have to allow yourself a little more time and travel to fully appreciate the wide spectrum of Delhi's diversity. And 50% of the population struggling to earn it's bread is not the story of Delhi. It is a society which aspires and is trying to modernize itself in culture and appearance.

    Yet, there are hundreds, if not thousands of problem the city encounters everyday. From ill mannered rabbles to elites who brags their affluence, from red stained roads to corrupt and lazy bureaucrats, we have a lots of ground to cover. The city is loud, but at the same time most vocal of it's own shortcomings and that's what make me most optimistic about it. Unlike any other city in the country, it's people can claim to have seen it change. It is a dynamic city which change, learn and adapt.

    Though the intent of your post is a mere comparison of two great cities, you can only be fair in your own quest if try to understand it in more patient ways.

    I'm just a little touchy about Delhi, so a little outburst may be exempted for this comment.

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  7. Delhi has some snobs
    Chennai has some slobs

    Now Patna on the other hand... and at this point you go read Kaka's post, a relic of the past that didn't have 11 reds.

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  8. @ mK and Dang,
    See it not as criticism as much as a mere comparison along certain arbritrarily chosen lines. You'd think I'd criticize, if I had to, on places apart from my blog, where the readership I fear is predominantly Delhi-ite.

    mK,
    I accept the cosmopolitan outlook. To an extent.
    And the weather... well, it'd raining and it's beautiful. Tell me how you it is out there.

    Dang,
    I comment not from my transit through the great city, but from my 4 months of experience in GK-II. Nevertheless, I never for once stated I'm an authority on the subject. As for the 50% part, contact RSV-Blogger.

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  9. @ PiSRA,
    One of the pillars of my post. Maybe it didn't come out that clearly...

    @ Dela,
    A sad state of affairs sans opposition prevails; For a hater of the ruling party and His great grandchildren has no choice. Hehe, English cannot hope to match such lyrics.

    @ Lefty,
    Lol. True. Hmm, I must ask someone for a link sometime then... to perhaps exorcise that stereotype of the Bihari!

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  10. Chennai had Tamil Nadu, Kolkata West Bengal, Hyderabad a touch of Andhra and the Nizams, Bangalore Karnataka, Pune Maharashtra. Mumbai is a little difficult as it was only "made" a few centuries ago. What the heck did Delhi have? The comparison is on no even ground, so I guess we should let it go. No point trying to prove anything.

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  11. Sometimes people are just biased towards their home cities, countries, cultures and anything they have been a part of for a long time, even if their logic of doing so stands on loose grounds. It might be the same case with me or you. I still haven't made peace with it, so as I said earlier, exempt the little outburst.

    And if I can rightly count, it's four posts already and December hasn't passed yet. Your blog is one of top 5 things I have followed this vacations, more than mine.

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  12. @ Murta

    That is about the most ridiculous comment I have heard for a long time. What the heck does Delhi need to have? It is just a place inhabited by people, and an accepted capital city for centuries now. As I said, it has no innate culture or tradition to call its own, but Indians have migrated from all parts of the country and made it their home.

    But you are right - this comparison is insane and pointless. Chennai and Delhi are as different as chalk and cheese, and to each his own city is dear. Surely we have better things to do than engage in this wasteful activity?

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  13. @ MK
    Couldn't agree with you more. Comparison between cities can turn into most sterile clashes. I bear the testimony to this as I have championed the case of Delhi for years now against Mumbai. Nothing can change your mindset against your home city, even if it soaks in dust and the other rise in prosperity. Whenever things get too heated, as they usually do, the thumb rule to cool it all is to resort back to R-Land, where the humanity confined in 365 acres of beauty lives in peace and harmony.

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  14. I've had fleeting encounters with Delhi, Goa and Bangalore. I observed - the souther, the better. I found people at Goa and Bangalore far more co-operative, no offence intended please. Also, the weather. But of course, I do agree with Amit's comment right above mine.

    Anyway, home or not, we all have our reasons to go to Delhi. Especially Manhattan-like areas, may I say with a wink!

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  15. @ Murtha,
    I expected a very different stance from you, seeing your Noida background and all... Nevertheless, I believe Delhi had Delhi. Though, I agree such a comparison isn't possible, rather than unnecessary.

    @ mK and Dang,
    Think with your minds, dear friends. Not with your hearts. After all, satiety is never a good thing. I did not intend this as a comparison, but as a comment on two cities of this great Nation. If they were the same, why would we know them different?
    And I take serious offence if anyone calls this wasteful activity. If you want mindless stuff, go read Two States!

    @ Vikesh,
    I didn't intend to mean anything of the sort. All the same, if it is your own opinion, I cannot help feeling glad. But it's always Manhattan ftw! Go, CP! _m/

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  16. I've been following this comment thread with considerable interest. It has become better and better as time wore on. I felt it nothing more than my duty to add my own two bits (again)
    Delhi is unsafe for women
    Chennai is unsafe for people who are not ashamed of speaking Hindi
    Now Patna on the other hand, does not discriminate against anyone. It is unsafe for all.

    I wrest my case.

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  17. Rofl! You sure know how to break up a tense situation. Wish you a happy stay in Delhi. And wonderful holidays.

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